Capri

The great Italian writer and painter Alberto Savino called the island of Capri “one of the most magnetic places in the universe”. And he was right, because the Capri of today, like that of yesterday, still holds an irresistible pull on travelers and celebrities from around the world.

It seems nothing less than a miracle, this natural combination of earth, sky, sea, and light in this immense cliff that rises from the depths.

The sea caves, amazingly shaped sea stacks, the greenery of the sheer cliffs, amazing scenery, artistic and literary heritage, dynamic social life – this all goes into the mix for making this the most dreamed of and celebrated of islands.

The first historic figure to be captivated by Capri was the Roman Emperor Tiberius who chose to spend the final years of his life here.

But it wasn’t until the middle of the 19th century that it became the well-known icon of style it is today. That was when writers, poets, artists, directors, and actors started to make it a niche residence and place of modern myth for decades to come.

At the center of Capri is the famous Piazzetta, once described as the “world’s salon”, dominated by the Baroque church of Saint Stephen, with Arab-inflected domes and stunning Roman floor originally from Villa Jovis.

The incomparable monastery, Certosa di San Giacomo, built in the year 300 and enlarged in 600, offers magnificent views over the vertiginous Faraglioni, or sea stacks. The same view is to be found in the Gardens of Augustus, an idyllic labyrinth of alleyways and stairs.

Following from the gardens you reach the Marina Piccola along Via Krupp, a tortuous alley that descends to the sea, offering breathtaking views. But the most famous walk on Capri is that leading to the viewpoint at Tragara, the shady square with a view. Under this square is the road that leads down to the Faraglioni, the three well-known sea stacks. The stack called Stella, attached to the coast, is 190 meters high, the Mezzo is 81 meters, and the Scopolo is 104 meters high and is home to a rare species of blue lizard.

Another monument to the sea at Capri is the Arco Naturale (natural arch), a scenic rock set in the crystalline waters of the island. The Grotta di Matermania, a huge natural cavern possibly dedicated in Roman times to Cybele, Magna Mater of the Latins, can be reached by a long staircase.

Tightly embedded in the rocky landscape at Masullo is the Villa Malaparte, built in the 1930s by architect Adalberto Libera as a home for the writer Curzio Malaparte. Even today the villa appears extraordinarily modern in its original and eccentric design.

On the northeastern edge of the island is the Villa Jovis, the palace of Emperor Tiberius. The impressive ruins dominate a wonderful view towards the Sorrento peninsula and face a sheer drop of 330 meters – this is the so-called Salto di Tiberio, from where the emperor had his less-favored subjects thrown into the sea.

Anacapri

On the other, quieter part of the island is Anacapri, with narrow streets and whitewashed houses surrounded by green. The most important historical monument here is the church of San Michele, built in the 18th century to a design by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro, with a spectacular majolica tiled floor.

It’s worth paying a visit to the Villa San Michele which was built on Roman ruins by the Swedish physician and writer Axel Munthe who lived on the island for over 50 years. His novel The Story of San Michele was set on the island and helped spread the myth of Capri. The villa’s gardens are of rare beauty.

From Anacapri you can take the chairlift and path up to the summit of Monte Solaro (589 meters), the highest point on the island which offers an understandably breathtaking panorama.

A trip to Capri is not complete without a visit to the Blue Grotto, the enchanted sea cave that has captivated visitors from around the world and which can be reached by boat from Marina Grande or on terra firma from Anacapri.

Filtered by the water, the light inside the grotto creates an exceptional color: an intense blue that plays with the silver reflections appearing inside.